Richie's 87 mayfair project - Page 51

**Richie** · 26/01/2010, 23:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisdhyslop

how do u find springs compared to cones?

It's standard rubber springs I have fitted

**Boab** · 27/01/2010, 10:30

never noticed the slabs

**Richie** · 09/03/2010, 22:47

Lately i've done a wee bit of soundproofing, bought a new heater matrix, rebuilt and painted the heater unit then tonight I made a start on fitting the smootharide kit, seeing as I can't do anything more to Lesley's mini until I get welding gas (the store closes at 4.30pm every day

)

Before I started, you can see how collapsed this spring is:

I didn't realise the top arm had to be removed to get the old spring out, it was a bit fiddly but I managed okay. Once the spring was out, i compared it to the new ones.

On the left hand side is a front smootharide spring which is taller than the original springs (you need the adjustarides to compensate for that). In the middle is obviously the old collapsed one and on the right is a rear smootharide spring which is the same size as a standard spring.

I was only working on the passenger side tonight and have the new spring in place and the top arm refitted. All I need to do is to wind in the new cone with the compressor and to fit the new adjustaride.

Everything went ok, apart from the thread stripping off the old spring when I wound it up. Also, the nylon cup for the knuckle joint came out in many many pieces as it was well squished into the socket!

Now i've almost done one, the other side should be easy - and the back ones should be uber easy!

Richie.

chrisG · 09/03/2010, 23:06

did use the right threaded rod with the compressor didnt you

choice of 2

might be why the threads died
and check the seat of the ball socket to see if its been rounded. one trick is to fill any wear with epoxy when your fitting the new cup, also heard of a trick were you can mash a penny into the bottom

**Richie** · 09/03/2010, 23:09

it was the one with the finer thread I used (metric thread)

ceejam · 10/03/2010, 13:45

The metric thread is coarser than the imperial thread.

This is why I always recmmend NOT to try and use a spring compressor to take them apart - undo the rebound stop, and pull the top arm pin out :wink:

minimad30 · 10/03/2010, 14:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceejam

The metric thread is coarser than the imperial thread.

This is why I always recmmend NOT to try and use a spring compressor to take them apart - undo the rebound stop, and pull the top arm pin out :wink:

thats what i do

**Boab** · 10/03/2010, 20:10

I just smack it with a mallet and it popped out oops

**Richie** · 10/03/2010, 22:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceejam

The metric thread is coarser than the imperial thread.

Argh - yup. My mistake, it was the coarser threaded rod which I actually used, just looked again

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceejam

Undo the rebound stop

What rebound stops?

The metal bits are there, the rubber seems to have disappeared somewhere along the line. I must get some!

I finished the passenger side tonight, then started the drivers side but I can't get the top arm bolts loosened, so I'm leaving it to soak in penetrating oil overnight.

Apart from that, I've got the cone compressed, the top balljoint split and the strut seperated from the spring.

Once I get the top arm off, I'll be able to do this side very quickly compared to the first attempt. It's like everything else, once you've done it once....

**Richie** · 12/03/2010, 16:05

That's me got both of the front smootharides fitted. I have now wound the hi-lo's right down but the bigger front cones have resulted in moon-buggy like suspension!! I'm sure this will settle in a few days as the increased ride height makes the car a bit wobbly on the road.

I've still got the backs to do which should be a lot easier / quicker...

A few piccys...

Huge clearance:

A bit like a 4x4: